Hence, I went Kailash and Manasarovar Yatra (KMY) with open mind to enjoy the thrill of trekking and enjoy the fun of going together with a variety of people having multiplicity of mind set. I did not have an iota of desire to see the face of God in Kailash Manasarovar Yatra. I wished and prayed to see the beauty of God’s creation in the name of nature where holy God (Lord Shiva) resides.
Various Facts about Kailash
Mount Kailash is sacred to Hindus, Jains, Buddhists and Bon (old Tibetan religion) Religions. In Hindu religion/ mythology, it has been referred as abode of Lord Shiva. Interestingly Kailash being 6638m has never been climbed whereas Mt Everest which is 8850m has been climbed several times. Reason can only be inferred that a supernatural power or force is in play. There are many views about Mt. Kailash.
In Hinduism
In Hinduism, it is traditionally recognized as the abode of Lord Shiva, who resided there along with his consort goddess Parvati and their children, lord Ganesh and lord Kartikeya.
According to Charles Allen, one description in the Vishnu Purana of the mountain states that its four faces are made of crystal, ruby, gold, and lapis lazuli.[8] It is a pillar of the world and is located at the heart of six mountain ranges symbolizing a lotus.
In Jainism
Rishabhadeva attained nirvana on Mount Kailash
According to Jain scriptures, Ashtapada, the mountain next to Mt. Kailash, is the site where the first Jain Tirthankara, Rishabhadeva attained moksha (liberation).[9] In Jain tradition, it is believed that after Rishabhdeva attained nirvana, his son emperor Bharata Chakravartin had constructed three stupas and twenty four shrines of the 24 tirthankaras over there with their idols studded with precious stones and named it Sinhnishdha.[10]
In Jain tradition the 24th and last Tirthankara, Vardhamana Mahavira was taken to the summit of Meru by Indra shortly after his birth, after putting his mother Queen Trishala into deep slumber. There he was bathed and anointed with precious unctions.[11][12]
In Buddhism
Mount Kailash (Kailasa) is known as Mount Meru in Buddhist texts. It is central to its cosmology, and a major pilgrimage site for some Buddhist traditions.Vajrayana Buddhists believe that Mount Kailash is the home of the buddha Cakrasaṃvara (also known as Demchok), who represents supreme bliss. There are numerous sites in the region associated with Padmasambhava, whose tantric practices in holy sites around Tibet are credited with finally establishing Buddhism as the main religion of the country in the 7th–8th century AD.
It is said that Milarepa (c. 1052 – c. 1135), champion of Vajrayana, arrived in Tibet to challenge Naro Bönchung, champion of the Bön religion of Tibet. The two magicians engaged in a terrifying sorcerers’ battle, but neither was able to gain a decisive advantage. Finally, it was agreed that whoever could reach the summit of Kailash most rapidly would be the victor. While Naro Bönchung sat on magic drum and soared up the slope, Milarepa’s followers were dumbfounded to see him sitting still and meditating. Yet when Naro Bönchung was nearly at the top, Milarepa suddenly moved into action and overtook him by riding on sunlight, thus winning the contest. He did, however, fling a handful of snow on to the top of a nearby mountain, since known as Bönri, bequeathing it to the Bönpo and thereby ensuring continued Bönpo connections with the region.
In Bön
Bön, a religion native to Tibet, maintain that the entire mystical region and Kailash, which they call the “nine-story Swastika Mountain”, is the axis mundi, Tagzig Olmo Lung Ring.
Dr Ernst Muldashev, a Russian ophthalmologist based in Ufa, came up with a theory that Mount Kailash in Tibet is actually an ancient manmade pyramid that is surrounded by smaller pyramids and is linked to pyramids in Giza and Teotihuacan.
Nicholas Roerich wrote about Mount Kailash and one of his most famous paintings portrays the path to the mountain.
There were several legends about Russian climbers in the 19th and early 20th centuries trying to scale the mountain and vanishing. A Siberian mountaineer once told about a group of climbers who climbed beyond a particular point and suddenly aged by a few decades. According to his story, they died of old age a year later!
No human has managed to scale Mount Kailash. There have been many legends of people dying in the attempt to climb the mountain. The Chinese authorities, knowing the religious sensitivity of the matter, have officially banned alpinists from attempting a climb.
“In Tibetan texts it is written that Shambhala is a spiritual country that is located in the north-west of Kailash,”
Mohan Bhatt, a Sanskrit scholar based in Mumbai, says the Ramayana also refers to the sacred mountain as a pyramid. There are also references to the moutain in the vedas he adds. “The ancient texts refer to the mountain as a cosmic axis,” he says.
Everything that happens in the world is pre-decided.
Kilash Manasarovar Yatra was in my hidden dream which got sprouted again when Geetha proposed for this trip during 2018. Although, I had desire but I was not sure that I shall be in a position to complete the hazardous trekking. I was neither agreeing nor denying and ultimately when we sat for filling on line applications we found that her passport has no validity for six months. The effort was fizzled out. I thought that it is God’s desire that we should not go. Geetha was mentally strong for such spiritual journey however, she was not confident enough to travel alone in this trip therefore, she was banking upon me. In 2019, to overcome my fear she proposed that we shall go to Kedarnath on trekking so that we can realize our strength. I agreed upon and booked our journey to Kedarnath and Badrinath well in advance in February for journey in May. In March one evening she proposed that we can go to Varanasi on second Saturday of April 13 and can be back on Sunday, April 14. First I thought, she was joking and finally I found her seriousness and she had a spiritual plan with an analogy that she wants to go to Varanasi to Kashi Viswanath baba and then Kedarnath and then to Kailash, step by step. Looking to her seriousness, I quickly booked the air tickets and hotel booking for two rooms near the temple with little difficulty. Finally we got two Non-AC rooms. It was enchanting journey and Bholenath darsan with Sandhya arati. Then in May we trekked to Kedarnath on May 14. It was a bad day, raining whole day. I did not find much difficulty in trekking but Geetha’s condition was pitiable. But I salute her mental strength, she refused to accept horse and walked all through 16 km+ 4km with occasional help of porter. On May 15, when we came down after unique darshan of Kedernath ji and got the mobile signal, I found that our application for Kailash has been cleared and we have to pay INR 5000 each before May, 22. It was a pleasant surprise and we realized that God has approved our Kailash darsan after we visited Kedernath. I found that Geetha’s plan was working. Geetha and me both became thankful to God for such kindness showered upon us.
On our return, Geetha started reading and watching several videos on the Kailash journey. We started collecting various trekking equipment and utilities necessary for such high mountain trekking as per the information guidelines of Ministry of External Affairs (MEA). We also booked our tickets to reach New Delhi one day in advance. Our one of two Liaison officers (LO), Mr. Manoj Singh opened a WatasApp group for KYM-2 batch via Nathula. There were several interactions, queries on the site. In the meantime I received a phone call from Mr. Navneet Chauhan of Rajkot- another selected Yatri who discussed about our mode of journey for Delhi, etc.
Itinerary
Yatra on 2019 in Batch #2 in route Nathula Pass starting on 20-Jun-2019 from Delhi; 21-Jun-2019:Gangtok; 22-Jun-2019: 15th Mile; 24-Jun-2019:Sherathang; 25-Jun-2010: Kangma; 26-Jun-2019:Lazi; 27-Ju-2019:Zhongba; 28-Jun-2019:Darchen; 29-Jun-2019:Deraphuk (Kailash prikrama); 30-Jun-2019: Zunzhui Pu; 01-Jul-2019: Darchen; 02-Jun-2019:Ougu (Manasarovar); 03-Jul-2019:Zhongba; 04-Jul-2019:Lazi; 05-Jul-2019:Kangma; 6-Jul-2019: Gangtok; 7-Jul-2019: Delhi. There was rigorous medical test in Delhi by ITBP before clearing the Yatris as fit on 17-18-Jun-2019. There was briefing by MEA on 19-Jun-2019. In our batch one Yatri was disqualified due to high blood urea (200). ITBP took all care for our successful Yatra and arranged grand send off at Nathula Pass and also receiving back with lunch. STDC made logistic arrangements.
In Prikram, first day trekking starts from Yam Dhwar to Derapuk which is about 15 km (16600 ft). Second day, Derapuk to Zunzhui Pu via Dolma Pass at 18600 ft which is about 19 km Trek. Most difficult due to low oxygen and steep up and glacier. Thirday of Prikrama 7km Trek + 95 km in bus.
On 14-Jun-19
Narendra dropped us in Anand station. We booked our Anand to Vadodara by 1249 Kabiguru Exp train. We were waiting for the train, in the meantime Sampark Kranti train to Delhi came in the station and all of a sudden Geetha got the idea of checking the time of arrival of our train. On line she could find that train has not yet started from the originating station. She went to inquiry and found that train is about 6 hrs late. We hurriedly boarded the general compartment of the train standing in the station. I again realized that God saved us from missing the train in Vadodara by giving right inquisitiveness at right time. We had our dinner rice and curry that Geetha brought by sitting in the platform. Our summer special train was on time and we boarded the train and settled down.
On 15-Jun-19
Train reached New Delhi station 30 min late at 8:30 am. We took a taxi and reached Gujrathi Samaj to find that there is no accommodation booked for us. It will be given to Yatris from tomorrow (16-Jun-2019). I talked to their Chairman over phone and he also expressed his helplessness. I called Navneet bhai and went to his room. He was kind enough to come our rescue being a Gujrathi he took me to reception and argued with them and finally a dormitory accommodation was given to us in dormitory 11, bed no 401 & 402. This guest house is only for Gujrathis and non-Gujrathis do not get accommodation. Anyway initial hurdle was over and we settled down in the dormitory. WE had Chole-bhaure in our breakfast from the canteen and tea with Navaneet bhai and Lata ben (Mrs Navaneet). We had breakfast in their canteen and then took some rest. I was in lower bunk and Geetha was in upper bunk of mine. Mr. Sitaram Mandal from Durgachak came. In the mean time I sent a message to Mr. Manoj stating our condition. He came down to Samaj at about 11:00 am and we meet the administrator. He also expressed his helplessness and told that Gujrathi Samaj has given from 16-Jun-2019 hence he cannot help. In the process of discussion, I found some of the comments of Mr. Navneet bhai unnecessary and insulting to others: such as he told to Manoj that “Aap log chotta officer hai”. It struck to my mind. Navneet bhai feels that he was a big officer and others are very small. Two more Yatris also came and they were also refused accommodation initially, however, finally they were also accommodated in our dormitory. One of them was typical Bengali, Mr. Sitaram Mandol who was speaking only in Bengali. And other one was young man from Gorakhpur, UP, very innocent and have family business of medicinal plants. His entire family is full of Vipassana sadhaks. I spent some time with him to understand his family business of medicinal plants. After lunch Geetha, Sitaram and me went to Canought Place and Geetha purchased some petty items. Sitaram purchased his medicines. And then we returned.
On arrival in Gujarat Sadan
On 16-Jun-19
Geetha and me went for morning walk in a near by park. Geetha collected some Tinospora from the park for her research. We had our tea on the way back near the hospital. When we returned we were asked to occupy another dormitory reserved for the Kailash Yatris. We shifted first and then went for breakfast arranged for “Yatris”. One by one Yatris started coming. At about 10:30 am Geetha and me went to Chandni Chak station by metro to find that it was closed due to Sunday. We had Jelebi (big size) and rabri and moved around a little. We returned and found that many Yatris have come and occupied the dormitory. We had our lunch and slept. Mr. Manoj came in the afternoon and had meeting with Yatris to explain various formalities of medical test and foreign exchange procurement. here was no work today. We went out in the evening too and returned at dinner time. From today our breakfast, lunch and dinner were arranged by the organizers. In the evening we went out for a stroll and had our dinner by 8:30 pm.
At Gujrat Sadan
At Gujrat Sadan after dinner
On 17-Jun-19
I got up early as usual at 4:30 hrs and got ready. We left the Samamj at 7:00 hrs to go to Delhi Heart and Lung Institute (DHLI). We also submitted our passport with VISA fees to STDC. Medical Check up continued till 15:30 hrs. Many Yatris were send for DOPLER test because they failed in TMT. However, I find the doctors and technicians were very positive and helpful. I could see the anxiety in the faces of Yatris who could not clear TMT and asked for DOPLER test. I found Navaneet bhai was also loosing hope at a time. Anyway test was over by 17:00 hrs and report was reserved till tomorrow to be reviewed by the ITBP doctors. We returned to our dormitory. While coming back, I met Ajay Verma who is in CRPF as commandant and posted in Tejpur. We become friendly while discussion. In the evening me and Geetha went out for a stroll. We had our dinner by 21:00 hrs and slept.
On 18-Jun-19
We left the guest house after breakfast for reaching ITBP by 8:30 hrs. All were silent in the bus and anxious to know the result. In ITBP two three NGOs came and distributed some medicines, waist bag, etc. Mr. Thapa, of STDC was all through with us to collect the name of medically fit candidates for booking our tickets to Bagdogra. Doctors started reviewing in three batches by three doctors. My case was cleared by the doctor and gave me the file to carry all the time in Yatra. I saw my test values and found that all were OK. One lady Yatri started crying when she found that her BP is high. Navneet Bhai was also anxious, although he may say differently after the trip. There were few demonstration of how to tackle heart attack. Lunch was arranged by an NGO. Finally, at about 2:30 pm we were ready to depart. Only one Yatri was declare unfit due to his high blood sugar (200). We returned back. In the evening Geetha and me went out just for strolling. Manoj had a talk with Forex company who came in the afternoon and all Yatris purchased their forex requirements. We also purchased our forex.
In ITBP before reviewing of medical report
In ITBP after the review result of medical reports
On 19-Jun-19
Geetha and me went for morning walk. After breakfast we went to MEA for briefing. After that formalities we came back to Gujrati Sadan. After lunch, Geetha and me went to Chandni chak to purchase bottles for bringing water and also to purchase Bilvapata. We returned by 3:30 pm.
In MEA after briefing
On 20-Jun-19 (Day-1)
We left Gujarthi Sadan by 8:30 hrs and reached Airport by 9:30 hrs. Checking took lot of time since AIR INDIA was changing its counter two three times. STDC people came inside of airport to assist us. We reached Bagdogra by 13:00 hrs. STDC arranged two buses for us and one van for transporting luggage. We were taken first to a hotel for lunch and then we had our tea in Nogpo and reached STDC hotel in Gangtok by 21:00 hrs. I was given room to share with Bala.
At Rangpo STDC Hotel
On 21-Jun-19 (Day-2)
In the morning, Geetha, Ajay, Manoj, Mohan and me went for morning walk. We had our breakfast by 9:00 hrs and we left the hotel for 15th and 17th mile at about 10:00 hrs. We reached our destination in 2 hours and had our lunch in 15th mile. Most of Yatis were accommodated 15th Mile and comparatively fit Yaties were sent to 17th mile. I also went with them (Ajay, Manoj, Rajsekharan, Bala, Kamal and me). Condition was that 17th Mile Yatris have to walk extra for lunch, breakfast and dinner to 15th Mile. There was occasional rain, good scenic view we spent time in gossiping and taking photographs. In the night we had our dinner in 15th Mile and then returned to 17th Mile and slept.
Morning walk in Gangtok
Morning walk in Gangtok
Briefing by ITBP at Gangtok
On 22-Jun-19 (Day-3)
I got up early in the morning at 4:00 hrs and did some meditation and yoga. I could not get proper sleep in the last night. At 5:15 hrs, Bala, Kamal, Ajay and me went for morning walk. We took some excellent photographs since day started with bright sunlight. We returned at 7:00 hrs and had tea with biscuit and got ready to go to 15th Mile for breakfast. We were told that first there will be BP check up and then breakfast will be served. To my suprise I found that my BP went as high at 190/110. Doctor advised me to take BP medicine, but I told him that I had never been any problem of BP. Moreover, I don’t find any symptom, so if he permits, I shall check up again in the evening and then start taking medicine if it did not reduce to normal. After breakfast, we were taken to sight seeing in Changu Lake some 26 km towards Nathula. We enjoyed the sight and I find lot of medicinal plants specially Podophyllum sp. Ajay, Sumit and Kamal went to Gangtok to purchase ratio for use in China. Mohan, Manoj, Khusboo and Geetha were with me and we took lot of photographs. We came down before lunch and after lunch I slept a little.
Cobra Lily
At Changu Lake
At Changu Lake
In the evening, again before dinner BP check up was there and my pressure did not fall, therefore, I was given medicine for BP. Doctor was very friendly.
After dinner, since it was raining, we got the bus to return to 17th Mile.
On 23-Jun-19 (Day-4)
I got up at 4:00 hrs. There was no arrangement for hot water hence I skipped taking bath and went for morning walk with Ajay, Kamal and Bala towards uphill side where there was Kartikaya temple. We also could find a spot where net was available. We returned and had tea with biscuit. I also to BP medicine. Today again before breakfast, my BP was checked and it was 168/100 which was considered still high. I was also advised to take a Diamox tab. After breakfast we, moved to Sherathang acclimatization camp (13,500 ft) by 10:30 hrs and settled down in two accommodation one was having rooms and other one was having dormitory. I was accommodated in dormitory with Ajay, Rajasekharan, Bala, Manoj, Sultan Singh and Kamal. I was advised not to move much. I also talked to Tablu who also advised me to take two 250mg Diamox tablets in a day. I also talked to Mukherjee-da. He advised me to take Homeopathy medicine Cacco that he gave and also take lot of water to flash out salts from the body. I the dormitory Yatries had various types of discussion on various issues starting from health to politics, nature, acupressure, etc. I find Ajay’s interest and knowledge of Indian politics worth mentioning. At a time, all were giving their expert opinions. I was enjoying some of their ignorance and confidence and also commented in between when comments were illogical and unbearable.
Road in Sikim
Road in Sikim
In the evening, Manoj steered up a programme of singing songs by the couples. Most of them sang romantic songs. Dr. Sujatha and her husband Dr. Venkateshwaran sang tamin romantic song which I could not understand the meaning at all. When Geetha was asked to sing, she sang “Yashamoti maia-re bole Nandalala, Tum kaun gori, main kaun kal” with an introduction that some Yatris were calling her “Kali ma” and song was her reply to those. I never though she could be so apt at a time. The programme ended with dinner.
On 24-Jun-19 (Day-5)
In the morning at nine there was medical check-up by the ITBP doctors specially BP and oxygen retention capacity. My BP was 158/90 and kept me waiting for another medical test in the afternoon by the lady doctor. I was asked to have minimum movement. Geetha became disturbed and started planning how to answer, her droop out in case I am detained. I told her to go and I shall wait for her in Gangtok. Anyway, after lunch I took some rest. Others went for a visit to Nathula for a temple darshan.
At 16:00 hrs I went for again medical check-up and found that my BP has become normal 130/85. Dr. Pal who was checking BP said that why you were not declare fit in the morning? Your BP in the morning was 158/90 which was below the acceptable level. I told that perhaps lady doctor did not take a chance looking to my age and wanted to see in the afternoon. I was also given five tablets of BP to be taken for five days. When I was cleared Geetha got the deep breath. There were four other Yatris who were not cleared in the morning because of either high BP or low Oxygen retention level. They were also cleared in the afternoon check up and there was a wave of happiness among all the members since no one was found unfit. All 34 Yaties were cleared for the Yatra.
In the evening we had Khidi in the dinner and the dinner was early, since we have to leave tomorrow by 5:30 hrs to Nathula for immigration formalities.
On 25-Jun-19 (Day-6)
I got up at 4:00 hrs and got ready since we had to leave early. We left Sherathang base camp having quick breakfast at 5:30 hrs. First we were taken to migration counter Indian side and then to Customs. Everything was just a formalities. By the time we reached Nathula Pass it started raining. There was lot of send off functions by ITBP and other defence organizations. Lot of group photes with banners were taken and finally we were allowed to go to China side in bathes of 5-Yatries. First our immigration was cleared. Our mobiles were checked. While doing so, I was surprised to see that my finger prints were not readable by their machines, in spite of several trials. Ultimately, I was allowed to pass after about 15-min. Chinese Customs clearance was very friendly and just a formalities contrary to what impression was given to us before leaving. They have not even checked any of the bags including camera.
Send of Group photo at Nathu La
Send of Group photo at Nathu La
After the formalities were over, we boarded in two buses as per our serial no in the passports. Therefore, Geetha went in bus number 1 and I was in bus number 2. We were instructed not to have any photography till tomorrow. We were taken to a hotel in Ya Dong county and we had our lunch. Scenic view on the was unique but felt bad not capture in my camera since there was restriction. Location of the hotel was in a beautiful river side. Surroundings was full of pine trees. Hotel served Indian food with lot of fruits. After lunch we had to deposit US$ 2200.00 each in a back counter and then we left the place. After travelling about 50 km the landscape started changing from beautiful greenery with rich flora to sandy rocky hills; Yak and sheep grazing; Occasional traditional houses of Tibetans to large modern housing construction. It seems that the Chinese are planning to migrate people from main land or else trying to change the habit of Tibetans from Nomad life to settled life. We reached to Kangma and lodged in a hotel in a restricted area and hence not allowed to go out of hotel premises. We were tired and settled in rooms. I shared the room with Mr. Batra, Mr. Sumit. ITBP provided 5-supporting assistants who prepared dinner and we had it by 23:00 hrs.
Hotel
On 26-Jun-19 (Day-7)
We left Kangma at 9:10 hrs after breakfast. Today I was shifted to Bus # 1 and sat in the last seat since photography were allowed after 2-hrs of journey. On the way we saw Gangtse castle and Belchu monastery from distance since our bus was stopping after every 2-hrs in a places mostly way from the town. We had lunch in a place where toilets were horrible. I started taking photographs of landscape, Tibetan houses, street photos, valley with crops (mostly barley and mustard), etc. We reached Lazi at 15:45 hrs and placed in a hotel which was having good facilities. I shared the room with Ajay. We went to Lazi market and I purchased a back pack and two pens.
Monastery
Converting Tibet as hub of vegetable production
On 27-Jun-19 (Day-8)
We left Lazi at 7:15 hrs since we had to travel about 475 km to reach Zongba for night stay. On the way we saw beautiful grazing Yak and sheep, River, Lake, Snow peaks, sandy peaks with some green shrubby cover. We had our lunch in a place where toilet facility was worst. All communication towers were solar power driven and unmanned. They were mostly placed on hillock peaks. We reached Zongba at 17:20 hrs. Accommodation was good except the toilet facility. I shared the room with Ajay. I found some Artimesia plants which was helpful to me to avoid worst smell of the toilets.
Horrible toillets in Tibet
On 28-Jun-19 (Day-9)
We left Zongba at 8:05 hrs. On the way we saw origin of the Brahmaputra River, also called Yarlung Tsangpo in Tibetan language, which originates on the Angsi Glacier located on the northern side of the Himalayas in Burang County of Tibet. Ajay and me discovered “OM Parbat” on the way where on the peak snow deposition was in the form of ऑ. We also saw the Kunjum Tso lake. At about 13:30 hrs. we had first glimpse of Mansarovar and Kailash. We were taken to Darchen by another set of two buses. Reached Darchen at 15:30 hrs and lodged in a monastery accommodation which was good and having better toilets. I shared the room with Ajay. Geetha shared the room with Khusbhoo. Yatris went to market to purchase sticks and souvenirs. Geetha and me too purchased souvenirs. Khusbhoo helped us in selecting some of the items.
OM Parvat that we discovered
On 29-Jun-19 (Day-10)
We left Darchen at 10:00 am and went by bus upto Yamdwar where we were allotted horse and porters. It took lot of time. We finally started walking from Yamdwar to Derapuk (16km). On the way there were beautiful peaks and rivers, water falls, Buddist engraved stones, etc. I did not use horse and at one point I was too tired. Geetha and Mohan were with me. We sat for lunch which I could not take at all. Geetha was also tired. Khusboo also joined us. We had tea and then Geetha and Khusboo left by horse and Mohan and me walked again. By the time we reached we were totally exhausted. I took some rest first and then went out to take photograph of Kailash in setting sun which was magnificent. Geetha also joined me in taking photographs.
Yam Duwar and Kailash from different side
On 30-Jun-19 (Day-11)
I got up early and went to open toilet with Batraji with toilet paper and 500 ml water for both of us. It was an survival experience. We left Derapuk at 7:00 hrs and walked for some time. Thereafter crossing a bridge we used horse upto base of Dolma pass and then again walked. Geetha was with me. We saw Gouri kund and requested my porter to bring water. He first refused and after that agreed in exchange of RMB 20.00. I was giving my porter some money every day. He was a nice jolly boy and in love with a girl porter of Harish Gandhi. We climbed down the stiff rock road and thereafter I did not used horse. I walked alone since Geetha left by horse after lunch. I could see that many Buddist are doing Kora by prostrating and covering the whole journey. Most of the Yatris left in horses. Me and Gandhi reached last Zuin Zu Pui at about 15:30 hrs for night stay. We ( Ajay, Manoj, Mohan and me) went outside to take some photographs and got some wild life photographs.
On 30-Jun-19 (Day-11)
I got up early and went to open toilet with Batraji with toilet paper and 500 ml water for both of us. It was an survival experience. We left Derapuk at 7:00 hrs and walked for some time. Thereafter crossing a bridge we used horse upto base of Dolma pass and then again walked. Geetha was with me. We saw Gouri kund and requested my porter to bring water. He first refused and after that agreed in exchange of RMB 20.00. I was giving my porter some money every day. He was a nice jolly boy and in love with a girl porter of Harish Gandhi. We climbed down the stiff rock road and thereafter I did not used horse. I walked alone since Geetha left by horse after lunch. I could see that many Buddist are doing Kora by prostrating and covering the whole journey. Most of the Yatris left in horses. Me and Gandhi reached last Zuin Zu Pui at about 15:30 hrs for night stay. We ( Ajay, Manoj, Mohan and me) went outside to take some photographs and got some wild life photographs.
Kailash from Derapuk
Kailash Parikrama route
Gouri Kund
On 01-Jul-19 (Day-12)
We started our journey from Derapuk at 8:00 hrs on foot. We walked about 7 km. Enjoyed beautiful scenery on the way. Geetha also walked all along with me. In between we started taking photographs. Finally we reached to Parikrama ending point where all the potters handed over their luggage and we left them. We were then taken to Darchen by bus where we halted about one hour. Many Yatris again purchased some souvenirs. We then started Mansarovar parikrama by bus. It is a longest lake of about 80 km above 15000 ft msl. We reached Kogo at about 3:30 pm in monastery accommodation and settled in five bedded rooms. We four, Ajay, Mohan, Manoj and me shared the room. Many Yatris went for taking bath. In spite of repeated instruction, one Yatri broke the rule and went inside the lake for taking bath. It was a shameful act by one of us and we all felt it bad since country’s reputation was in stake. We did some social work by removing plastics left by earlier batches on the Lake side. I took some remarkable photographs of sunset.
On 02-Jul-19 (Day-13)
I got up in the morning at 5:00 hrs and went to lakeside for photo hunting expedition. Geetha joined me and Ajay joined us a little later. At 10:00 am I took bath with lake water. Ajoy, Manoj and Mohan joined me. After bath they went for Puja and “Hom”. I did some photography and returned to my room for taking a nap. Geetha came and awake me to join fag end of puja. Manoj and Kamal become emotional after the puja and came to me to touch my feet which I resisted and hugged them. I was also moved by their love and affection. In the afternoon after taking Prasad, Manoj, Ajay, Geetha and me took the car of the organizer on hire (RMB 300.00) for going to take photographs of birds in the lake. It was a good trip but flop show since birds were not approachable distance. After coming back we all again went to lake and chit chat with photography there. Just in the dusk, We (Mohan, Geetha and me) sat in brief meditation in the lake side after the sunset. It was short but refreshing.
After dinner, Manoj, Mohan, Ajay and me analysed behaviour of many Yatris. However, Mr. Sultan Singh and Mr Gandhi were in the lime light of our discussion.
On 03-Jul-19 (Day-14)
I got up at 5:00 hrs and sat for meditation. After a brief meditation I went to Mansarovar with Geetha. It was quite dark. We sat in the wooden platform and watched the colour change in the skyline as sunrise. We also spotted 7-illuminations in lake at the foot of Kailash parvat which had no explanation. Where from the light was coming and slowly going after a few minutes. We left the monastery hotel from Kugu after breakfast at 9:30 hrs. We went to Rakhasthal and had group photographs and then returned to same route. We reached to the point where we changed our bus for Darchen. We again changed the bus and proceed to Zongba. In the bus all the Yatris started sleeping. We reached Zongba by 17:30 hrs. I shared the room with Ajay and to our surprise two birthday celebrations were organised followed by full course dinner Roti, Sabji, Dal and Kheer.
On 04-Jul-19 (Day-15)
We left Zongba at 7:50 hrs. Most of the Yatris started sleeping. We had lunch break in between and reached Lazi by 17:30 hrs. Immediately after reaching Ajay, Kamal, Sumit and me went to purchase some gift material for the LO’s and Supporting staff. Thereafter, I went with Rajsekher, Geetha and Bala since Rajsekharan wanted to test some Tibetan food.
On 05-Jul-19 (Day-16)
We left Lazi hotel by 8:00 hrs after breakfast. We had our lunch in between. I had to tell Mr. Sultan Singh not to waist food when he was throwing breakfast in the dustbin which was not taken in right spirit. It is my weakness to warn others when I see somebody is throwing food in dustbin. In this country, when so many hungry mouth go to bed without food, we have no right to waist food because we have the capacity to grab it more. Later I found that many yatris are taking food more and throwing it later. During the journey, most of the Yatris started dozing. We reached Kangma by 16:30 hrs.
In the evening Satyaprakash-ji volunteer to organize a programme for thanks giving to the supporting staff and LOs with singing and variety of programme. After the programme dinner was served.
On 06-Jul-19 (Day-17)
We left Kangma by 8:00 hrs after the breakfast. Photography was not permitted hence I packed my camera. I also got some drowsiness. Vehicle was stopped once in-between Nathula. Our bus also hit a barricade in the road side. It could have been a fall. Customs and immigration formalities were smooth in both the sides. ITBP welcomed us with tea and pakoda and group photos. There was also welcome shower from the God. We had our lunch at Sherthang hosted by ITBP. All Yatris enjoyed it after a long time such a full course lunch. We left Sherthang by 14:30 hrs and reached Gangtok by 17:00 hrs. It was raining throughout the journey and there were light landslides in two places. Again I shared my room with Ajay. After settling in Gangtok hotel, Mohan, Geetha, Sumit and me went to M. G. Road in a taxi (INR 80.00). Manoj, Ajay, Dasharath Bhai and his wife and Khusboo met in the MG Road. We had momo, cheese role, laddo. We returned again in a taxi.
On 07-Jul-19 (Day-18)
I got up at 4:00 hrs and went to lobby at 5:00 hrs to see of those leaving early to catch airindia flight. They left by 6:00hrs. I returned in the room and got ready for tea. We left the hotel by 7:30 hrs. Reached Rangpo and had breakfast. Reached airport by 13:00 hrs and first checked in and then had our lunch in the airport restaurant. At the time of security check, Ms Kabita did drama. In spite of repeated reminder to her, she carried holy water in her hand bag. When she was reminded, she adamantly replied that she will manage. She wasted about 15-20 min in security. She even started weeping. Ultimately she was allowed to carry some after taking out water from each bottle.
We reached Delhi airport by 18:00 hrs and all departed. Geetha and me took a Uber and first I dropped her in her sister’s place in Vikash Puri and then I went to Dr. Devakumar’s house in Indarpuri. Our journey ended with a thrilling note in mind that will linger long.
I am still in the web of life
Additional Information
Kailash Kora (Parikrama) Distance
After travelling a long journey to Mount Kailash and Lake Manasarovar, both tourists and pilgrims will welcome the Kailash kora (Parikrama), the holiest and most challenging part during the Kailash Manasarovar Yatra. The kora around this holy mountain takes about 3 days, covering a total distance of 56km in a clockwise direction. Generally, it starts from Darchen, then passes through three valleys, before finally goes back to Darchen. On the way, tourists would spend one night in Dirapuk monastery and another night in Zutulpuk monastery.
Kailash Kora (Parikrama) Route and Distance
Day 1: Darchen (4,560m) – Drirapuk Monastery (5,210m) (20km) The first day of the kora include a 7km’s driving and 13km’s trekking. You will first take the environment friendly bus to Sarshung Valley from Darchen. After meet your yak and porter, you will start the trek from Sarshung Valley Drirapuk Monastery via Lachu Valley and rivers.
Day 2: Drirapuk Monastery (5,210m)- Zutulpuk Monastery (4,790m) (18km) The second day of the kora is a total trekking trip for 18 km. you will trek over Dromala Pass (5,630m), the highest pass during the Kora. On the way, you will see locals prostrating in the Kora path. It will take about 7 to 8 hours to reach Zutulpuk Monastery.
Day 3: Trekking: Zutulpuk monastery (4,790m)-Darchen (4,560m) (14km) On the last day of Kailash kora, you will first trek for 7km to Zongto, and then take a bus back to Darchen.
Tailpiece
- As an agnostic person who has no clue about the mysteries of the universe, I don’t know what to make about various claims of Mount Kailash. It does make me happy to know that the Chinese government respects the sentiments of Hindus and Buddhists worldwide and will not let anyone try and scale Mount Kailash- which is also referred to as a Stairway to Heaven.
- I shall also echo with Reinhold Messner who once said that
| “If we conquer this mountain, then we conquer something in people’s souls. I would suggest they go and climb something a little harder. Kailas is not so high and not so hard.” |
- Initial joy of achieving something together vanished by the time we returned to our respective places. Blame game started by one of the Yatris on one of the LOs and some of the Yatris started siding without knowing the fact or truth. I became sceptical again and raised the doubt whether such holy journey really transforms anyone?
- If I leave upon those human behaviour, I am immensely gained by watching diversity of nature and establishing once again in faith that “Birds of same feather flock together”.
- I wish that MEA should revise the information bulletin and seperate out the lists of essentials required in the Nathu La route.
- Finally, I wish to place on record the love, affection and concern that I enjoyed during the trip from some of the extraordinary Yatris, Ajay, Manoj, Mohan, Kamal, Rajasekharan, Bala; Batra; Dr. Venkataswaran; Dr. Geetha and Khusboo. They have made my journey enjoyable and memorable.
It is believed that “Only a man entirely free of sin could climb Kailash. And he wouldn’t have to actually scale the sheer walls of ice to do it – he’d just turn himself into a bird and fly to the summit.”
Acknowledgement:
I am thankful to the MEA, STDC and Govt of China for facilitating this trip.
Reference:
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Kailash
- https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/Now-trek-to-Mount-Kailash-in-just-2-5-days-as-China-opens-new-route/articleshow/47579894.cms
Namaste sir. An yatra which everyone wants to go. Without HIS blessings it cannot happen. Fortunate u have done it. Write up was great. Hopefully the stand off gets resolved asap for Yatra to start. Here u have mentioned SDTC. SDTC full form plz.
Dear Mr Narayan, thanks for your comments. You are right everything that happens to us is done by the almighty. My visit to Kayilash Mansarovar is really a dream to me even now. It is STDC (Sikkim Tourism Development Corporation). I shall check the blog and correct if it is wrong. Thanks for your comments.
Sir nothing wrong mentioned in the blog. Just wanted to clarify the source through which all the formalities were carried out for the Yatra. Thanks. Advance Diwali wishes to u & ur family.