Hiking with Rhododendrons  in Rohini to Kilpur Bugyals in Uttarakand during March 2025

Photo copyright © Satyabrata Maiti

In continuation from……..

Visits to Kalimath-one of the Shakti Peeths and Triyuginarayan Temple  in Uttrakhand during March, 2025

Our main attraction of this trip was to visit Rohini Bugyal as I mentioned in my first blog of this series (https://satyabratamaitiblog.co.in/a-visit-to-koteshwar-mahadev-temple-in-uttrakahand-during-march-2025/).

I was planning this visit since 2021 when I was told by Deewan Ji about this trek and showed me some videos  when  Rhododendrons were in full bloom. I fall in love with Rhododendrons since I joined ICAR-Complex for North Eastern Hill Region in Shillong in 1977. I saw a book of this genus in the library of  Botanical Survey of India, Shillong campus and eye catching photographs of the flowers hypnotised me instantly.  Although I got some opportunity to supervise research work  on this species as Project Coordinator of Medicinal and Aromatic Plants  in Barsar center,  Uttarakhand, the full continuum of its beauty was still remained unrevealed to me.  I never wanted to miss it this year for the reason that I am getting older and trekking may not be possible if I don’t do it now.  I planned it with Deewan-ji (Guide)  from Sari village, about 3-months before March.  When I disclosed my plan to my co-trekker, Dr. Geetha, she  also instantly agreed to my proposal for this long-awaited  dream trip.

24-Mar-2025 (day-1)

We started our journey on 24-Mar-2025 in the morning having breakfast by 7:30 am from Sari village. The trail of Rohini Bugyal does not involve much steep climbing except in the starting from the Sari village which was about 2.5 km. This distance was covered by us to reach the peak by about 2.5 hours.

The hiking trail to Rohini Bugyal was adorned with red Rhododendron flowers throughout. One can enjoy it only  during the months of March and April, that way we feel fortunate. This is one of the serenest sites that we visited so far.  We came across the endless chirping of birds which was the only sound in the path. However, we missed clear sound of streams passing through the mountains because of the dry season.  The route passes through beautiful dense forest rich in a wide variety of flora. Red and pink Rhododendrons were welcoming us with beautiful smile of bloom in each and every turn and twists of the path.  There were no tourists except us in the entire path, it seems   this hidden gem that enchants with its pristine beauty is still not fully uncovered. It is really a  paradise for nature lovers, photographers, and adventure enthusiasts seeking solace in the lap of the Himalayas. I wish that only nature caring and loving tourists may visit this place so that tranquillity and untouched beauty   remained preserved.

When we reached the Rohini Bugyal it was a WOW expression came out instantly from both of us.  Bugyal, meaning “meadow” in the local language, aptly describes the vast expanse of lush green grasslands that stretch as far as the eye can reach. Rohini Bugyal  is situated at an elevation of approximately 3,600 meters (11,800 feet), it  offers panoramic views of the surrounding snow-capped peaks, including Nanda Devi and Trishul. Distance from Sari village was about 12.50 km.

This is the place where the villagers come from down below during summer months use for their goats’ grazing. Some of them also use patches of the land for cultivation, mainly for potato. They have arranged some make-shift shelters with stones and mud plaster. They stay here till onset of winter and go back to their villages for winter stay. It is like royal arrangements of winter and summer capitals as British people introduced when they came to rule India.

We reached the place by 5:00 pm and Bhagat Singh Negi who is a relative of Deewan-ji was waiting to welcome us. Except we, five there were none around. There were a few unoccupied shelters available for our night stay. Deewan ji had explained us the rules of our stay while we started our journey: no light, no mobile connection, no water from the bottle or supply, no bed, no toilets, no bath rooms, etc. Temperature in the night was -2⁰ C. This type of situations was not new to me, once I spent about 13 days in Karnataka forest like this where roof was the sky and bed was the lap of mother earth.  I was little worried about my co-trekker.  We had our dinner by sun set with dal roti prepared by Pradeep and  Bhagat Singh. Pradeep arranged a fire in front of our shelter. We enjoyed the warmth of the fire and tried to absorb as much as we could for a sound sleep in the night.

25-Mar-2025 (day-2)

I got up very early and went out of the shelter with my camera at the dawn to enjoy the chirping of the birds and to capture some photographs of them.

At 8:30 am after having breakfast with dal and roti, we left Rohini Bugyal to trek another Bugyal named Kilpur Bugyal which was about 4.50 km from Rohini Bugyal. It was in higher elevation with snow trails. Bhagat Singh was guiding us.

The trail was also full of red and more pink Rhododendrons in flowering. It was a thrilling journey passing through snow covered trek (little steep) and finally reached the Kilpur Bugyal  at 12:30 pm by taking our time. We stayed there for hours enjoying the beauty of the snow covered peaks and the stream coming through, birds around, above all surrounded by the flowering  Rhododendrons. There were some Rhododendrons not in flowering, when I asked about it, Bhagat Singh told me that these are white Rhododendrons and will flower after a month. Pradeep prepared noodles by lighting some dried branches of Rhododendrons in the utensil that Bhagat Singh brought. Snow was melted for water.  After having it, we took some rest laying on the lap of the mother earth. Thereafter we started coming down slowly and reached Rohini Bugyal shelter by 4:00 pm.

We repeated the same story of having dinner by sun set with dal, roti and local leafy vegetables (bitter) prepared by Pradeep and  Bhagat Singh. Pradeep arranged a fire in front of our shelter too. We enjoyed the warmth of the fire and tried to absorb as much as we could for a sound sleep in the night.

26-Mar-2025 (day-3)

We had our tea after taking breakfast and prepared to say good bye to Rohini Bugyal. It was decided that Dr. Geetha and me would go slowly by capturing some more photographs of  Rhododendron  flowers  and Pradeep, Deewan-ji and Bhagat Singh will catch up us after starting a little late. We lost the path and went to other side of the trek. Lost about 30 min, Pradeep could trace us since we were making sounds for our rescue. Bhagat Singh accompanied us upto a point where some of his known fellows were halting with goats. They prepared tea with goat milk and after having it we left at 10:30 am and said good bye to Bhagat Singh. We four slowly came down to Sari by 4:00 pm by avoiding the steep trek that we had taken during the onward trek.

Rohini Bugyal and Kilpur Bugyal, these hidden gems imprinted an unforgettable experience in our memory which would linger in our heart even after the journey ends. We discovered the magic of the Himalayas in all its brilliance.

Note: It was difficult for me to select photographs from my vast collection. My condition was like ” বাঁশ বনে ডোম কানা” meaning selecting a bamboo is difficult in bamboo forest.

(To be continued…….)

Jai Bharat!

Satyabrata Maiti

Acknowledgement

My sincere thanks to:

1. Geetha for her company during the trekking.
2. Pradeep and Deewan Singh for guiding us in the trek.
3. Bhagat Singh Negi for his hospitality and kind help in the Bugyals

References

1. Wikipedia
2. Other online information