Photo copyright: Satyabrata Maiti
On 12-Mar-2023, I boarded Inigo flight at 8:00 am to go to Agarrtala via Delhi on a World Bank sponsored programme. Mr. Raj Ganguly, Value Chain Specialist of World Bank joined me in Delhi Airport. We landed Agartala at the scheduled time. A vehicle from the Forest Department, Govt. of Tripura was waiting for us. We purposefully avoided staying in star hotel accommodation as per the World Bank custom.
Mr. Pritam Ghosh
A young and energetic driver named Mr Pritam Ghosh was in control of the vehicle. On the way, Raj wanted to purchase some sweets and vegetables. When I asked the reason and knowing it, my head bent down to realize his determination in walking in the path of spiritualism even being in service. I was so touched by his determination and felt to bring it in the blog in hand to show the people those who say that spiritualism is not possible when one is in service and on the other hand to give strength to those who are like him. He has been initiated by his Guru and as guru directed, he is taking self-cooked food only. He was carrying “Shalagram Sila” for his regular prayer and he takes food only after offering to God. He was carrying rice cooker, and one utensil for boiling some vegetables.
Raj doing Puja
Prasad after Puja
While purchasing his requirements, he also searched for incense sticks (“Agarbatti”) and excited to see a brand of “Agarbatti” named Oudh sticks which was manufactured in Karnataka. Agarwood named in Sanskrit as Aguru and has enormous references in our Puran, Vedas, and in many religious texts. It is a fragrant dark resin bearing wood used in incense, perfume, and small carvings. This resinous wood is most commonly referred to as oud or oudh (in Arabic: عود, romanized: ʿūd, pronounced [ʕuːd]). Interestingly historical Awadh region which now fall in north-eastern part of Uttar Pradesh in India known in British historical texts as Avadh or Oudh. And trade link and supply of this aromatic preparations from Awadh was the genesis of its name as OUDH in Arabi speaking countries. Resin is formed in the heartwood of Aquilaria spp belonging to the family Thymelaeaceae of trees when they become infected with a mold (fungus) (Phialophora parasitica) that allows the plans to produce a resin as defence mechanism to restrict the fungal spread in the plant. Prior to infection, the heartwood is odourless, relatively light and pale coloured; however, as the infection progresses, the tree produces a dark aromatic resin, called aloes (not to be confused with Aloe spp, a succulent plants, commonly known as the bitter aloe) or agar (not to be confused with the edible, algae-derived agar agar ) as well as oud, or oodh aguru (not to be confused with bukhoor). The resin-embedded wood is valued in East and South Asian cultures for its distinctive fragrance, and therefore it is used for incense making and perfumery.
Agarwood trees
His reason of excitement was though Agarwood is an important tree of entire North Eastern Indian states and as per his understanding Agartala name symbolizes the Agarwood, yet this component has not been harnessed yet in Agartala and a product from this reason is coming far from the Karnataka. Another reason of his excitement was: Oudh is Agarwood, not known to many. He jumped upon to purchase two packets of Oudh incense sticks. His pain point was being a value chain expert he wants to see at least a few entrepreneur developments with local products with the help of local talents. I too share the same pain and wish that these North East states come forward for such local entrepreneur development.
Finally, we reached the Forest Guest House and settled in room number 9 (me) and 10 (Raj). In the evening we went to Sri Chaitanya Gouria Math and spent about an hour and also enjoyed Sandhya Aarati.
Sri Chaitanya Gouria Math
Various stalls out side the temple complex
When we returned, we met Dr. Bhutia, a young IFS officer with whom we shall be spending time, for the next three days in preparation of a value chain project for World Bank support. He happened to be alumni from my university. He is a horticulturist by training and an excellent forester with great knowledge of plants and birds. Since our interest was matching, we decided to go for morning walk on the next day together.
Dr. Wangdup Bhutia, IFS
On 13-Mar-2023
I started my day at 5:30 am with morning walk in Oxygen Park. All the parks and forest plantations in Agartala are under the control of Dr. Bhutia. When we reached, we found that main entrance or gate of the Oxygen Park was closed since being Monday, it was closed for public. Dr. Bhutia called one of his staff and we entered through a small gate about 100 m away. It was a very pleasant and learning experience, walking in the very rightly coined name “Oxygen Park”. The park was also getting ready to welcome the G20 delegates and a yoga platform had been made ready. Similarly, the entire park had been decorated with species information and also with the models of various animals, birds, etc. We spent there for more than an hour and returned back to do yoga together in the guest house.
Entrance gate of Oxygen park
Path in the park
Models of various animals in the park
Tree created elephant tusk
Preparation for Yoga of G20 Delegates
On 14-Mar-2023
We went to Heritage Park for morning walk at 5:30 am. This park had a unique concept. Models of all various heritage, buildings and monuments were placed inside the park for educating the people and the tourists. Entire railway track of Tripura had been placed in the park as model with stations’ name. Trees are QR code labelled with basic information about each tree. It was an enthralling walk for me and we returned by 7:30 am to do yoga together and thereafter get ready for our task of World Bank.
Entrance of Heritage Park
Models of various Heritage sites of Tripura
Path in the park
QR Code Tag for information of trees
Some plants in side the park
After the work, Raj and me decided to go to Tripureshwari temple. A vehicle with Pritam was given to us. Pritim took us first to Neer Mahalto be reached by boat. We could not go there since minimum of 20 passengers were needed for the journey. I took a few photographs of the Mahal from a distance and we had tender coconut and left the place to reach Tripureshwari temple.
Views of Neer Mahal and its surroundings
Tripura Sundari Temple is a Hindu temple of the Goddess better known locally as Devi Tripureshwari. The temple is situated in the ancient city of Udaipur which is about 55 km from Agartala and can be reached by train or road from Agartala. The state of Tripura is named after this temple. Popularly known as Matabari, the shrine is set upon a small hillock that resembles the hump of a tortoise (Kurma). This shape called Kurmapṛṣṭhākṛti is considered the holiest possible site for a Shakti temple, hence also bestowing the name of Kurma Pīṭha. The Goddess is served by traditional Brahmin priests.
Animal was dragging for sacrifice
Tripurasundarī Temple views from different angle
The temple is considered to be one of the 51Shakti Peethas; legend says that the little finger of the left leg of Sati fell here. Here, Shakti is worshipped as Tripurasundarī and the accompanying Bhairava is Tripuresh.
There are two similar but different sized black stone idols of the Goddess in the sanctum sanctorum of the temple. The larger and more prominent idol of 5 feet height is of Goddess Tripura Sundari and the smaller one, adorably called Chhoto-Ma (literally, Little Mother), is 2 feet tall and is an idol of Goddess Chandi. Every year on the occasion of Diwali, a famous Mela takes place near the temple which is visited by more than 0.2 million pilgrims.
After reaching there, I went to the temple alone since Raj was busy in a video conference with his colleagues. I could take some good photographs but utterly shocked to see that a group of people were dragging a buffalo for sacrifice before the Goddess. It was so pathetic and also could see the panic and fear in the eyes of the Buffalo that I could not stand. I immediately left the Temple complex and came down. I could not understand why people sacrifice animals in the name of God/Goddesses.
I spent time in Kalyan Sagar which lies in the eastern side of the temple.
Kalyan Sagar
The area of the Kalyan Sagar Lake is 2.752 acres having 224 yards length and 160 yards width. This water body adds a great dimension of beauty to the temple surroundings, with hills rising picturesquely in the background.
The Kalyan Sagar is full of rare Bostami turtles (Nilssonia nigricans)
Bostami turtles (Nilssonia nigricans)
(considered extinct in the wild), some of them quite large, that come up to the surface looking for crumbs of food that visitors buy from the nearby stalls and feed to these reptiles, as part of the rituals. Devotees feed them with “muri” (puffed rice) and biscuits. Different types of fishes are also found in the sagar but fishing is not permitted here.
After the Video conferencing, Raj came to the temple but I did not dare to visit again thinking of the sacrifice. Later Raj told me that Goddess has spared the life of the Buffalo and Pujaris refused to accept sacrifice on the day. On the way back we also visited a “Haat” (Local market) and I took some photographs. We returned back to the Guest house at about 8:30 pm.
Sri Ram Thakur Sewa Mandit at Udaipur
On our way back to Agartala from Udaipur (Local Market view)
Dry fish in local market
On 15-Mar-2023
Today Dr. Bhutia and me went for morning walk to a local market wherein, lot of forest produce are sold as vegetables. It was a great experience to see bamboo shoots were sold at 400.00 rupees a kilo gram, Parkia was sold as Manipuri beans, Centella asiatica was sold as Tankuni at 30.00 rupees per 250 g. Lot of Colocasia, Dioscoria and also some flowe
A local market view full of leafy and Non-timber forest Produce as vegetables
like Bakfool (Sesbania grandiflora), Drumstick flowers, leaves and fruits and some flowers that I could not identify, were also found. We returned by 7:30 am and joined in Yoga followed by our mission.
On 16-Mar-2023
At 5:30 Dr. Bhutia and I went to “Vidhan sabhaa” complex wherein, MLA hostel, Governor’s and Chief justice’s residences, other official buildings etc were there. The forest department is maintaining the plantations in the complex. It is a nice place for the morning walkers and joggers. I could see and photographed State Flower of Tripura known as
- Nageswar or Naga Poo
- The botanical name is Mesua ferrea.
Nageswar (Mesua ferrea)
We returned by 7:30 am and joined in Yoga. I left the Guest house at 9:15 am to go to the Airport for return back with a great satisfaction and desire to visit again.
An age old village house
Jai Hind!
Satyabrata Maiti
Acknowledgement:
- Mr Raj Ganguly, World Bank for sharing from his vast knowledge through discussion with me on various subjects that has enriched my knowledge.
- Dr. Wangdup Bhutia, IFS for accompanying me and showing the parks and local market and his brotherly behaviour.
- Mr. Pritam Ghosh, Driver for his willing support in showing some of the monuments and Temples of Tripura.
- On line resources were used for the write up.
- The Wikipedia for giving insight of Temples of Tripura.
I have read your visit to Agartala as presented in an elegant manner in your blog .I spent long years of my life in Agartala which is named after Agarwood being declared as State tree . With the fractional distillation, perfume is extracted from resin and the perfume is being exported to abroad mainly middle East.In Assam , this distillation is carried out locally followed by export and there is a scope of entrepreneurship development with this product. It is good to see that you have also visited the local market and the place has lots of locally produced Tuber crops . In Matabari , sacrifice of Animals as you had seen , was banned but it may be resumed. There was another temple in Udaipur and one has to go to the temple by crossing the river. But that temple was the site where Tagore wrote his drama ‘ Bishwarjan’ on the plot of sacrifice of human. That temple is in broken condition. It is good trip you had made to Agartala with a hope of successful entrepreneurship development in the time to come.All the best.
Thank you Mrinmoy, i enjoyed your comments and suggestions. Let us see if any small entrepreneurship develop in Tripura in near future or not. I find state is very receptive and also progressing well contrary to West Bengal.
An excellent account of the place, tradition, local market & food basket. I feel it could serve as a good template for school children to narrate their school picnic/educational trip etc. Also, ethnobotanic information here should find a place in proper scientific journal.
The signature of professional photographer is writ large on each photo!
Look forward to many more in the near future.
Thank for your wonderful comments. regards
Sir, your writing made me feel like I was right there with you, experiencing the culture, food, and scenery of each destination. Your travelogue was visually stunning, and your photographs added an extra layer of depth and richness to your descriptions. Please keep inspiring us!