It is one of the major pilgrimage and festivals in Hinduism.It is celebrated approximately after evry 12 years, to celebrate every revolution of Jupitar (Brihaspti) at four river-bank pilgrimage sites: the Prayagraj/Allahabad (Ganges-Yamuna Sarasvatirivers confluence), Haridwar (Ganges), Nashik (Godavari), and Ujjain (Shipra).The festival is marked by a ritual dip in the rivers, but it is also a celebration of community commerce with fairs, education, religious discourses by saints, mass feedings of monks or the poor, and entertainment. The seekers believe that bathing in these rivers is a means to prāyaścitta (atonement, penance) for past mistakes,and it also cleanses them of their sins.
Approximately 50 and 30 million people attended the Prayagraj Ardh Kumbh Mela in 2019 and Maha Kumbh Mela in 2013 respectively to bathe in the holy river Ganges, making them the largest peaceful gathering events in the world.
I had a long desire to visit Khumbha mela and cover it with photographs along with a holy dip in the river. I booked my tickets for Prayagraj Ardh Kumbh Mela in 2019. But could not attend since I did not get any hotel accommodation and finally gave up. I thought that my destiny has not given the green signal yet for the same.
When Haridwar Khumbha Mela 2021 was announced, I did not resist my desire even though COVID-19 pandemic situation cut short the mela during for a month only. I booked my hotel (Madhuban Guest house) in March by paying full money in advance and then booked my air tickets. My friend, Dr. G. B. Raturi who stays in Dehradun advised me to visit during 12-15 April, 2021 because two ”shahi snan” (royal baths)one on 12-April and other on 14-April I can cover. Itinerary was prepared according to his advice. When I booked the tickets and accommodation there was no panic of COVID-19. However, situation become worst near to my departure time. Many of my friends and well wishers advised me to cancel my trip. But I gave them my argument in favour of going that “Tomar karma tumi karo ma, loke bale kori ami”; means “Oh God, you do your work, but others say I do it.” I also jokingly told by welwisher friend Dr. Devakumar that my horoscope is with you, If I die, people will once again reiterate that destiny drags. Before, I go to my visit, let us know something about KUMBHA MELA.
What is Kumbh Mela?
The Kumbh Mela is held at one of the four holy pilgrimage destinations, Haridwar, Nashik, Prayagraj (Allahabad), and Ujjain, every 12 years by rotation. However, this year, the event is taking place after 11 years instead of 12 years. According to the astrological calculations for this Kumbh, Jupiter will complete this cycle in 11 years and enter the Aquarius sign in 2021. By the time the Sun enters Aries in 2022, Jupiter will have entered Pisces. Jupiter will be available in Aquarius and the Sun in Aries in 2021. Therefore, Kumbh Mela will be organized in the year 2021, according to the official website.
Why is Kumbh Mela celebrated?
According to the beliefs, the nectar from the pot fell at four locations – Prayagraj, Ujjain, Haridwar, and Nashik during an epic battle between the gods and the demons. At these four places, Kumbh Mela takes place. The Hindu devotees throng these places with a belief that a dip in the waters of the sacred rivers will wash away all their sins. The fact that hundreds of millions of people (coming from the most ancient and sophisticated philosophical and metaphysical system on earth) have for thousands of years believed this to be true suggests that an awesome power is indeed present at the Kumbha Mela sites. In the case of those who give up their bodies after purifying themselves at Prayaga by bathing at the confluence of these two rivers – Ganga and Yamuna – the two wives of the ocean, there is no bondage of another body in a future birth and this liberation is achieved even without philosophical knowledge.
The astrological periods
The four melas. The years of their most recent and future occurrences:
Haridwar: when Jupiter is in Aquarius and the Sun is in Aries
During the Hindu month of Chaitra(March-April) 1986, 1998, 2010, 2021
Prayagraj: When Jupiter is in Aries or Taurus and the Sun and Moon are in Capricorn During the Hindu month of Magha (January-February); 1989, 2001, 2012, 2024.
Nasik: When Jupiter and the Sun are in Leo During the Hindu month of Bhadrapada (August-September); 1980, 1992, 2003, 2015.
Ujjain: When Jupiter is in Leo and the Sun is in Aries, or when Jupiter, the Sun, and the Moon are in Libra during the Hindu month of Vaisakha (April-May); 1980, 1992, 2004, 2016.
HAPPENING OF KUMBH MELA
As per ancient scriptures of sanatan dharma, based on planetary positions the Kumbh Mela happens at various places. It is celebrated in a cycle of approximately 12 years at four river-bank pilgrimage sites
The Normal Kumbh Mela
It is held every 3rd year.
The Ardh (half) Kumbh Mela
It is held every 6th year.
The Purna (complete) Kumbh Mela
It takes place every 12th year, at 4 places Prayagraj (Allahabad), Haridwar, Ujjain, and Nashik.
The Maha Kumbh Mela
It takes place every 144th year (after 12 ‘Purna Kumbh Mela’).
Due to the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, this year the Kumbh Mela will be held for 48 days in Haridwar, Uttarakhand, instead of three-and-a-half months. The Kumbh Mela began on January 14. , while the first Shahi Snan (holy dip in river) took place on March 11 on Maha Shivratri.
Dates of Shahi Snan (holy dip in river)
March 11: Maha Shivratri.
April 12: Somvati Amamvasya
April 14: Baisakhi
April 27: Chaitra Purnima
The last Shahi Snan will mark the end of the Haridwar Kumbh Mela.
There was strict guidelines for pilgrims visiting Kumbh Mela
- Devotees and tourists visiting the Kumbh Mela will have to carry a negative COVID-19 RT-PCR report. The report should have a test date 72 hours before the date of the visit.
- Devotees and tourists will also have to obtain a compulsory medical certificate in their state from the nearest Community Health Center/District Hospital/Medical College.
- Based on the guidelines issued by the Ministry ofHealth and Family Welfare, the Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) also makes it compulsory for devotees to bring a medical fitness certificate and an e-pass or e-permit issued to them after registering on the Kumbh Mela web portal.
After following the strict guidelines, I procured my medical fitness when doctor giving the certificate also discouraged me. I told him that if don’t take a chance now, I may not get the opportunity in my this life since next KUMBHA MELA will be after 12 years and I may not survive that long. He laughed and signed my certificate.
Journey started on 12-April-2021
I left Anand at 6:30 am after taking the blessings of one of my elders. Reached Ahmedabad airport and subsequently to Dehradun by 12:30 pm. When went to book a prepaid taxi for Haridwar, I got a shock that all the roads have been blocked for outside taxis by the mela administration. Finally, I was advised by the fellow in the counter to go upto Nepali Farm by taxi and then to avail local transport arrangements of mela administration. Accordingly, I reached Nepali farm which was 16 km away from Haridwar and got a bus upto a depot (about 5km). I got down and again directed to board a bus. Bus went with a snail speed upto Har ki paudi and stopped since procession of Sudhas started by then. I got down with my luggage since I could not resist temptation of taking photographs of procession. I somehow could go above an over bridge and could take some of good photographs. I spent about an hour. After that I started walking to my hotel which was about 6.5 km away. I reached hotel and checked in had a cup of tea. I took bath and again went to Ghat for photography. I returned by 8:00 pm and again took bath followed by dinner.
13-April-2021
I got up at 4:30 am and went to Ghat by 5:00 am. I found people already started taking bath. I spent time their upto 8:00 am and then returned. I took bath followed by heavy breakfast for the whole day and went out again at 9:00 am. I returned from the Ghat by 12:30 pm and took some rest. In the afternoon at 4:00 pm went to Har ki Paudi spot. Took some photographs and waited till evening for taking photographs of Sandhya Aarti. The spot was jam packed. Social distancing was only on announcement. Of course, administration was distributing mask free of cost. After Aarti, I returned to hotel at about 8:00 pm and took bath followed by dinner.
14-April-2021
I went to Ghat at 5:00 am and roamed around. When was returning about 7:00 am, I found one spot when NAGA SADHUS were getting ready to go in procession for Sahi Snan. I was disappointed, when I was told that when they will take bath, no unauthorised persons will be allowed in that spot. Therefore, photography will not be possible. However, I become happy to see the Naga Sadhus on the road en mass. I stand in a spot and took photographs of their activities and their joyful activities which fulfilled my apatite of capturing those moments. I spent about 2 hours there and the returned back to hotel. I received a call from Dr. Raturi. He reminded me that I should take a dip in Ganga today and also a dip in his name. I took breakfast and then went to ghat with swimming costume and towels at about 10:00 am. I took refreshing dip in Holy Ganga and remembered my well-wishers and also took dip in their name. I returned back to hotel at 11:00 am and took rest till 3:00 pm. I againfor the last time went to Ghat for taking photographs. I returned at 7:00 pm and took bath followed by dinner.
15-April-2021
I got up at 3:30 am and got ready for leaving the hotel at 4:30 am. Reached Dehradun at 5:30 am and reached Ahemedabad Airport via Delhi at 1:40 pm. Reached Anand at 3:30 pm and prepared myself for self quarantine for next 7-days. I shall not regret for taking risk in COVID-19 pandemic condition since my memory is full of positive vibrations that will last long.
Photo Gallery:
Introduction: Beauty of the beach and arrangements



Processions:



Naga Sadhus:












Sandhaya Aarti






A little rest:


















Livelihood in the Ghat





Naga Sadhus










Photo credit: Satyabrata Maiti